7-11 Novembre – Reims Revisité
We stayed just two nights in Reims on our 2021 “Tour de France” (just before a week in Paris) but they produced
many fine memories. So when our friends, Monica and Sean, invited us to join them along with others for a weekend in Reims attending the Salon des Vins des Vignerons Independants, a tasting tour of Reims, and including a visit to a Champagne maker who grows his own grapes, we could not resist seizing the opportunity to return.
Our first night we returned to the restaurant we loved when we had dinner there in September 2021 – Restaurant Gabrielle Toit Terrasse – revisiting a superb memory – and creating new ones!
Our first night we stayed 200 meters from the Cathedral at La Demeure des Sacres, a beautiful Art Deco restoration.
For our first event Sean and Monica had sent us our tickets to this expo and arranged for us all to meet at the Salon on Saturday afternoon, where upon entering each of us received a tasting glass and a booklet listing all the locations and what they were selling. After a briefing from Sean we were turned loose to explore. Around the perimeter of the hall there were 45 food vendors offering every kind of food that France has to offer. These events are held around France from November to March. Because you are buying direct from the producers, the prices are extremely attractive (as much as less than half of the retail price) and, of course, you taste before you buy! There is no limit on what you buy, or how much. It was a three-day event, but we did “only” two.
Later that afternoon, Sean and Monica took us on a tasting tour of Reims followed by dinner that evening at La Grande Georgette.
Monday afternoon we went by train to Rilly, about 14 Km (8.5 miles) south of Reims, to visit the maison of Daniel Dumont where they produce their own Champagnes from the grapes they grow in their own vineyards in Rilly.
The grandson of Daniel Dumont who founded this maison, Benjamin Dumont, began our tour in the room where his grapes begin their evolution from juice into wine, and from there into the second fermentation that produces the bubbles that makes Champagne arguably France’s most sought-after beverage, and synonymous with gaiety and victory throughout the world. It is a meticulous process that require 15 months in these caves that were made in the 1870s. The limestone removed to make them was used to level the railroad right-of-way between here and Reims.
Contrary to legend, Dom Perignon did not invent Champagne. He is credited with having brought the process, known today as methode champenoise*, from Limoux in southwestern France to the Champagne region, but no one really knows. Champagne as we know it today was the work of the veuve (widow) Clicquot. At Daniel Dumont only their Champagne gets to descend and ascend by ascenseur – mortals must use this helical stone staircase’s 109 steps!
All good things must eventually come to an end. Les treize chanceux Joyeux Dégustateurs de Vin gathered at
L’Alambic for one final dinner together on Monday evening.
*By French law the term methode champenoise can only be legally used to describe the traditional
method for making Champagne. The term for making all other sparkling wines produced in France –
Crémant – is methode traditionalé.
I cannot sign off without acknowledging the photographers whose photos I have used above: Bonny (7) Hande (12) Monica (15, 16, 17 & 19) our server at La Grande Georgette (18) Patrick (23) Sean (28) and our server at L’Alambic (29) I will assume responsibility for having taken the others (unless someone wishes to challenge my assumption) so I hope you will enjoy them.
This month I am beginning doing just doing one feature rather than a diary of all that has happened during the
month. This will allow me to use larger images – and more time to do what I enjoy most – living here in France!
À bientôt !
John
La Vie de Montpellier 
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